Signs you need this
- Hail dents across one or two sections with the rest of the door sound
- A creased bottom section after a vehicle contact
- A panel that has split at a hinge and is flexing as the door moves
- Rust blooming along the bottom edge of the lowest section
- A door that works perfectly but looks wrecked from the street
- An HOA letter about the appearance of the door
Why one section and not the whole door
A sectional garage door is exactly that: four or five horizontal sections hinged together. Replace a damaged one and the rest of the door carries on. That works beautifully when the door is recent and the maker still runs the profile. It works badly when the door came from a builder fifteen years ago, the maker has since changed the panel design, and the nearest available section sits a quarter inch off.
So the first thing we do is read the label. It is usually a sticker or stamped plate on the inside of one of the end stiles, and it carries the maker, the model line and often the build date. From that we can tell you in a phone call or two whether a matched section exists.
Hail, and what it does to steel
Collin County sits in the part of North Texas that takes serious hail most springs. Garage doors get hit hard because they are a large flat vertical surface with nothing in front of them, and west and south facing doors along streets in The Colony, north McKinney and open newer subdivisions come off worst.
Steel garage door skin is thin, typically 24 to 27 gauge, and on insulated doors it is bonded to a foam core. That bonding is what stops a dent from being pulled or popped out the way an auto body shop would treat a fender. There is no honest dent repair for a garage door section. It gets replaced or it gets lived with.
The good news is that a dented door is usually still a safe, working door. Hail rarely damages springs, cables or track. That means you have time to think about it rather than an emergency to solve.
Working with a claim
If you are putting the damage to your insurer, you need an itemized written estimate that separates parts, labor and any hardware, along with clear photographs of each affected section and the door label. We supply that as standard and we will talk to an adjuster about scope if it helps.
Two things worth knowing about North Texas policies. Wind and hail deductibles here are often set as a percentage of the dwelling coverage, so the out of pocket number can be much larger than a standard deductible. And carriers usually settle on repair scope, which means a claim may cover the damaged sections while you pay the difference if you would rather have a complete new door. Get the estimate first and make the decision with real numbers in front of you.
Vehicle damage and the bottom section
The other half of this work is somebody backing into a door that had not finished opening. That damage lands on the bottom one or two sections, and it often takes the bottom brackets, the seal and a roller or two with it. The bottom section is also the one carrying the cable anchors, so it gets inspected carefully before anything is unbolted. Those brackets sit under spring tension whenever the door is down, and they are never something to take apart at home.
How the work runs
- 1
Identify the door
Maker, model line, section profile, gauge and finish come off the label inside the end stile or from the hardware. Without that, a matched section is a guess.
- 2
Check availability and color
We confirm the section is still produced in your profile and finish. Discontinued models and faded factory colors are the two things that turn a panel job into a door job.
- 3
Give you both numbers
Cost to replace the sections against cost of a new door of similar spec. You see the arithmetic and choose. We will say when the panel repair is poor value.
- 4
Fit, rebalance and finish
Damaged sections come out, new ones go in with fresh hinges and end stiles where needed, then the door is rebalanced because a replacement section rarely weighs exactly the same.
What it typically costs
| Job | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Single steel section, supplied and fitted Depends on door model, width and finish match | $350 to $900 |
| Bottom section with new seal and brackets The most common vehicle contact repair | $420 to $1,000 |
| Two sections on the same door At the top of this range a new door is usually better value | $700 to $1,700 |
| Hinge, strut and end stile repair Where the panel is sound and the hardware took the damage | $110 to $320 |
| Dent pulling on a steel section Garage door steel is thin and skinned over foam, so it does not pull back cleanly | Not offered |
Typical ranges for Plano and the surrounding area , reviewed September 2026. Every quote is written and fixed before work starts.